Crochet Slouchy Beret Pattern and Tutorial

As promised, here is the tutorial for the crochet slouchy beret that was featured on the blog last week.

One of the things I love about learning the skills to make your own clothes and accessories, is finding items I adore in the shops and online, and then being able to make my own unique version at home for a fraction of the price. It was whilst browsing on these sites i found a lot featured metallic looks for the Autumn/Winter '13 season. I was very excited when I found this gorgeous metallic yarn - a fantastic bargain at 3 for 2 from Poundland. I thought it would lend itself nicely to a slouchy beret and this pattern was born. It took a few attempts to get the sizing right - there is a stage which involves decreasing your stitches whereby the head sizing is achieved. This can easily be altered to fit any size head, and can also be altered depending on how you would like to wear it. I wanted a hat that would fit loosely, quite far back on the head and this pattern will work up in this style if you wish to follow it verbatim rather than make your own sizing changes.

Here's a little pic so you can see how it looks from the front -

Mine measures 33cm at the largest diameter across the back of the hat.

The middle of the hat (the part which your head goes in!) is 15cm across.

(Please note this pattern is written is US terms).

This pattern uses a 5.00mm hook. You may prefer to use another size hook, but I found this a good size to use with this yarn in order to get a 'loose-ish' stitch which flattered the style. To begin the hat you will need to take your hook and work a chain of 3 stitches. Slip stitch into the first stitch in order to create a loop.

To begin the next row (technically the first row), chain 3. This will count as your first double crochet (treble in uk terms). You will now need to do a sequence of 16 double crochet stitches inside the loop that you have just created. It is important that you ensure that you have used the space created in the middle of your loop rather than using the inside of your stitches, to maintain an even tension and a 'balanced' circle at the base of your hat.

After your 16dc's, slip stitch into the top stitch of the 3 chain to form a circle.

Again, you will need to make a chain of 3 stitches to form your first double crochet of the round. You will now need to work two double crochet stitches in the top of each of the 17 stitches of the first round.

It may feel as though it is quite 'tight' to fit two doubles into each stitch, but please try and stick with it! Try and keep each as even as possible and remember to keep the tension balanced. You need the extra stitch in each stitch at this stage to create the width you will need as you work outwards. Work around the circle until you reach the initial chain of the round and slip stitch to join. You will now have 34 stitches around the circumference of your crochet circle.

For your next round, you will once again start with a chain of 3 stitches. This next round provides the basis for the rest of the hat, as you will be working a double in the next stitch, then two doubles in the next. Carry on this throughout the round. Repeat this pattern working an extra double crochet stitch in each seqeunce before adding two in one stitch and then repeating the sequence. That sounds a little 'wordy' but all it means is that in each round you will be working a sequence of one double crochet in each stitch, followed by a pair of doubles then repeated i.e. 1 double crochet in the next stitch, followed by two double crochets. The next round is one double crochet in each of the next two stitches, then a pair, repeated. Next would be a double crochet in each of the next three stitches, followed by a pair, and so on. Each round is finished off with a slip stitch. Into the top of the first 3-chain.

The sequence will continue until you reach a series of 8 dc's, followed by a pair of dc's. At this point you will have reached the widest brim of the beret. If you would like it to be wider, you can continue with another couple of rows, increasing each time and keeping with the sequence (i.e. 9 then 10 double crochets, followed by pair) for a nice, even look. Once you have reached your desired width, you will be adding two rows whereby you will chain 3, followed by one double crochet in each stitch and a slip stitch to join. Again, extra rounds can be added at this stage to increase the slouchiness of the hat - just add as many rows of straight double crochet as desired, without increasing the amount of stitches. It is useful to use a stitch marker to keep a watch on how many rounds you have worked.

The hat is now taking shape, and there are only a couple more stages until you're done! At the stage you will be beginning to decrease the size of your rounds in order to fit your head. Chain 3 to begin, and then work a double crochet in the next stitch. Now you will be working the next double crochet into the next two stitches, therefore causing the hat to become smaller. If you are unsure how to decrease in double crochet a good tutorial can be found here.

Continue with your decreases until your hat is a width which fits over your head snuggly but not too tight - you are just looking to get the right sizing at this point, not fit it to your head (so that it secures on) - this will be done during the next stage.
Try the hat on and check yourself out in the mirror - figure out how far back on your head you would like to wear it, and keep decreasing until the sizing seems correct.

If you have got this far, well done - you're almost there! All you need to do now is work the edging. These rounds will finish the hat off allowing stretch at the hairband for fit, and gives a nice knitted look. This achieved by beginning your round with a chain of two stitches, which will count as your first half double crochet. Continue around the stitches with hdc's until you reach the chain two and slip stitch to finish. This round forms the base of the edging. The next four rows are worked as followed; work a chain of two stitches. Now you will begin with a back post half double crochet This means that your hdc will be worked under the stitch below, and around the post - Not in the stitch as a regular hdc is. For the next stitch it is the same principle except you will work in the opposite side and therefore create a front post half double crochet. Continue in this manner, alternating between working your hdc's around the back and then front posts of the stitch underneath. Slip stitch to join at the end of the round and chain 2 to start the next. A total of four of these rounds are worked to create a stylish and functional stretchy edge. Fasten off.

Not all that is left to do is weave in your ends...And Congratulations - You're hat is finished! Thank you for following this tutorial and I hope you enjoy your new slouchy beret :) If you have any questions, please leave a comment and I will get back to you as soon as possible. If you give this pattern a go, please leave a link to pictures of your work - I love seeing them!

One last thing - please keep in mind that I only write patterns for fun, I am not a professional so there may be some small mistakes ;/ Please contact me if you find a problem! Also, please respect the copyrite of this pattern - I have provided it free of charge for the personal use of readers of this blog. Please do not use it for financial gain. Thanks!

Here is the pattern -


Slouchy Beret in Metallic Yarn

Size –
Adjustable. Measure around circumference of designated wearers head.

Yarn –

Knitting Essentials DK in Grey Sparkle 50g x 2

Hook –
5.00mm

Pattern –

Work 3 ch. ss in first chain to form loop.

Round 1 –
3ch (counts as 1dc). work 16dc in loop. Ss in top of first 3-ch to join. (17sts)

Round 2 –
3ch. 2dc in each st to end. 1dc in same st as initial 3-ch. Ss to join. (34sts)

Round 3 –
3ch. 1dc in next stitch. 2dc in next stitch. *1dc in next 2 stitches. 2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * until end. Ss to join. (48sts)

Round 4 –
Repeat Round 3 (64sts)

Round 5 –
3ch. 1dc in next 2 sts. 2dc in next st. *1dc in next 3 stitches. 2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * until end. Ss to join. (80sts)

Round 6 –
3ch. 1dc in next 3sts. 2dc in next st. *1dc in next 4sts. 2dc in next st. Repeat from * until end. Ss to join. (96sts)

Round 7 –
3ch. 1dc in next 4sts. 2dc in next st. *1dc in next 5 sts. 2dc in next st. Repeat from * until end. Ss to join. (110sts)

Round 8 –
3ch. 1dc in next 5sts. 2dc in next st. *1dc in next 6 sts. 2dc in next st. Repeat from * until end. Ss to join. (126sts)

Round 9 –
3ch. 1dc in next 6sts. 2dc in next st. *1dc in next 7sts. 2dc in next st. Repeat from * until end. Ss to join. (142sts)

Round 10 –
3ch. 1dc in next 7sts. 2dc in next st. *1dc in next 8sts. 2dc in next st. Repeat from * until end. Ss to join. (158sts)

Round 11-12 –
3ch. 1dc in each st. ss to join. (158sts)

Round 13 –
3ch. 1dc in next st. 2dctog. *1dc in next 2 sts. 2dctog. Repeat from *until end. Ss to join. Repeat Round 13 until beret is desired circumference.

To finish with knitted style edging –

Round 1 (edging) -
2ch. 1hdc in each st until end. Ss to join.

Round 2-6 (edging) –
2ch. *bphdc in next st. fphdc in next st. Repeat from *.

Fasten off. Weave in loose ends.